a matter of taste

 

I've just been reading the chapter on the nineteenth century in an erudite and well respected history of embroidery. It presents a very clear hierarchy of value of the different types of stitching, something that does nothing to endear me to the author. However, the fact that he is so sniffy about and dismissive of Berlin wool work has rekindled my interest in what I think is an amazingly interesting and eye-catching stitching phenomenon. 

I suppose I have what passes for very dubious taste when it comes to the Victorians. I love the excesses of Charles Dickens, theatrical extravaganza and pantomime, Gothic  architecture and polychromatic brickwork, chocolate-box style paintings and blowsily colourful Berlin wool work.  For my MA thesis (Victorian Art & Literature, or Old Paintings & Books as Simon would say), I did consider writing about needlework in mid-Victorian art and/or literature (eg the ladies in Cranford  enjoy stitching Queen Adelaide's face on a canvas) but found it to be such an enormous subject that I would need and want far more time and words to do justice to the subject.

I first came across the very distinctive Berlin woolwork in genre paintings like this one by James Collinson which is in the Graves Gallery in Sheffield (he also painted another of my favourites - no doubt quite distasteful to some people - here). Just look at the detail, the lush colouring, the choice of objects, the symbolism -  and the Berlin wool work braces and unfinished slipper canvas. It turns out Berlin wool work was one of the biggest crazes of the nineteenth century. (What did we have a century later? Clackers. I don't think we are in any position to belittle beautiful stitching just because it was colourful and copied from charts and patterns when we can't come up with anything better...).

Anyway, I still love the look of Berlin wool work and enjoy finding it in books and paintings. It's not difficult as it was everywhere; on furniture covers, bell pulls, bags, slippers, hats, purses, footstools, spectacle cases and gancy goods made for selling at the hugely popular charity bazaars. It sums up a very special mid-Victorian look and, whether or not you like it, it's one you can't ignore.

I recently found this Berlin work-style piece of needlepoint on eBay. The seller let me have it for free because she didn't think it was worth paying for. Admittedly, it's not Victorian and it's done in nylon thread in places, but it's a beautiful design, nicely stitched, and in the deep, bright colours associated with the newly discovered synthetic dyes that fuelled the Berlin wool work craze. I think it's wonderful because it's done with commitment and panache, and immediately makes me want to stitch big roses and vibrant foliage, which is more than can be said of some of the more tasteful and valuable 'art' needlework that is so highly rated elsewhere.

 

Comments

[Sylee]

Marvelous to discover this style, which I hadn't heard of before. I will keep my eyes open in the flea markets and secondhand shops!

[Susan M.]

You would need "longer and far more words to do justice to the subject?" I smell another book coming on! Go for it!

[a.]

not worth paying for?! it's beautiful! i especially love that second bunch of leaves down, the bright turquoise and jade. when I see samples like this in antique shops near me, they cost a whole lot more than free! lucky duck.

[Mimi]

I inherited ("fought" my sister for it)a beautifully embroidered example from my grandmother. She mostly embroidered Ukrainian cross stitch and I didn't know this was something called Berlin work. People think it's a painting, if they don't look closely. Because it's framed, they can't see how expertly she changed colors. No knots on the back of a 2 x 3 foot canvas of a vase of poppies, daisies and cornflowers that she designed herself. I love it because the colors delight me, not just because it's sentimentally valuable. I'm going to go into the living room and admire it once again. Your posts are often inspirational to me. Thanks

[Roxie]

In the fifties, my mom did needlepoint with the design already worked (sometimes in pettite point on penelope canvas,) leaving only the boring background for the more timid (or meditative) women to finish. Mom used to fall for those Victorian colors and designs, then get bored after a few weeks of eternal neutral half-cross. Wish I could go back in time and grab those things before the moths got to them.

[Virginia]

Looks like stuff that my grandmother did (and taught me how to stitch on) when I was a kiddo.

We are decidedly not German, however. I think I'm the only person in my family who has been within a 100 miles of Berlin, for at least the last 200 years... if not more.

[geraldine]

I love it! I adore big blowsy roses - one of my favourite fabrics is Sanderson's 'Chelsea' which I have snapped up every time I see a vintage well-washed and worn piece. I remember starting stitching with Berlin work at about 8 or 9 having been given a kit for a birthday present. It was a giraffe. I still think my mother has it somewhere!

[Leila]

I agree that those colors are wonderful! Good find.

[Nicola]

Beautiful post. I remember references to Berlin Wools when I was reading Charlotte Bronte's Villette. I love it when I can place a literary reference!

An MA in Victorian Art & Literature, how wonderful! I did start an MA in Children's Literature but I still have it on hold.

[Merilyn]

When I think of berlin work I think of old foot stools and fire screens. My mother started one I wish I had appreciated and kept. Most you see they gave up when it came to the backgrounds.I find them screwed up in old sewing bags at markets so sad to see.What about Kaffes Glorious Needlepoint!

[Carol]

I love Berlin work - the colours ar so rich - the reference to Kaffe Fassett had me scuttling off to find my copy of the book. The Flower Trellis cushion/carpet design surely owes much to the Berlin work tradition.I only wish I had the time/patience to tackle it

[Rachael (Tales from the Village)]

Oh, I love big, strumpety, overblown roses. When I finish writing this book I'm going to get out my needles and do some sewing.

[Sarah]

I was foolish enough to look at the 'Clackers' link on Wikipedia and it describes them as a vintage toy. Vintage toy! Surely we aren't old enough to have played with anything that could be described as vintage? I may have to lie down with a cold compress on my head :-)

I have a bit of a weakness for Roses and Castles painting on canal barges myself - there's something about folky and blowsy that really lifts the spirits.

[anddylynne]

Thank you I learned something new, as I often do reading your blog. I love the look of Berlin Wool, I like it too . I didn't know that's what it was called. I have collected pieces of it over the years. I feel I have "saved" peoples hard work when purchase one. Of course I'm a sucker for all needle work, and hate to see it cast aside and unloved. Thank you for the lesson.

[knittingoutloud]

Wonderful post! I followed every link. Love the Collinson paintings. Thank you for this.

[kateuk]

There is still snobbery about tent stitch canvas work.Enter a piece for your local horticultural show in the craft embroidery section and it will be disqualified as, apparently, tent stitch canvas work isn't 'embroidery'.
How can the likes of Berlin wool work and all other canvas work NOT be embroidery?
So stupid it beggars belief.

[Charlotte]

Great post, really interesting and explains what I have hanging on my wall - an inferior form of needlework! So silly isn't it? Love it just the same, but the colours are very faded unlike the wonderful piece in your post.

[Hanne C]

Ah lovely colours on that nylon Berlin piece.I use at lot of that type of woolwork for my bags.

[hydeeann]

one of the things i truly love about you jane - how you cherish and expose the value of what others sniff at.

[Anne]

Check this gorgeous thing out on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Georgian-Walnut-table-protector-Berlin-work-/110639709999?pt=UK_Antiques_DecorativeAntiques_Collectables_EH&hash=item19c2a3ff2f

[Audrey]

jumping in very late, but I love Berlin work. (I do the modern version - Elizabeth Bradley's - and would love to find some old examaples or even charts...). It's a wonderful combination of cross-stitch and needlepoint, and it's a little unusual, which makes it fun. Thanks for this as-always interesting entry!